Christian Dior Couture AW2012/13
Its been a tumultuous few seasons, but finally the House of Christian Dior have reached the calm shores of stability, and with it Raf Simons’ first couture collection. The reviews have been mixed, but generally those from within the fashion industry have been positive, as opposed to the outcry of blasphemy at the loss of John Galliano emanating from public platforms.
Yet no matter how you look at it, there’s no denying that the Parisian Couturier has bloomed into its new chapter from the darkness which has encapsulated it for so long. Amongst the maze of flowers, reminiscent of his last show for Jil Sander, Simons’ new horde of models (note, the lack of Galliano’s favourite Karlie Kloss) set out to finally relieve the tension surrounding the famed House.
Beginning with pared-back beautifully tailored pieces cut sharply into black, Simons made clear that it would be him leading the house regardless of what the world way saying about its legacy. There were appliqued peplums, some that were perhaps just a bit too long, yet the trousers which underpinned them were immaculately fitted and the understated simplicity of Lindsey Wixon’s outfit in white continued Simons’ swan song from Jil Sander.
Running perhaps a bit off track, Simons presented his audience with four tie-died gowns, which on any other catwalk may have caused an excited flurry in its richness, but here merely reminded of Galliano’s tulip collection for the House just 2 years prior.
Overall the collection was a strong return to its roots for Dior, no doubt gaining the approval of the original designer himself. The shapes were strong and the pieces pretty - but just pretty is not what the fashion world is accustomed to at the epitome of couture. Perhaps a bit underwhelming as a whole, yet given the time scale and the pressure, this was by no means a bad beginning to what could be a gleaming matrimony of the rich history of Christian Dior with Raf Simons’ modern sophistication.